Caring for Walking Gear in Wet Weather

Why a Bit of Mud Matters More Than You Think

Come back from a sloshy ramble along a country lane and it is tempting to kick your boots off by the door and leave the waterproofs crumpled in a heap. But mud, wet grass and persistent drizzle do more than make your kit look tired. They work their way into stitching, foam, membrane layers and leather. Left to sit, that damp grit becomes a breeding ground for mildew, while repeated wet-and-dry cycles pull the natural oils out of leather until it cracks. A little care after every muddy walk keeps expensive boots and waterproofs doing their job for years rather than seasons.

Boots: Clean, Dry, Condition

Boots are the hardest-working part of your kit, so give them the most attention. Start by removing laces and footbeds. Shake out grit and stones, then rinse the outside with cool water. Never use a hose on full blast or a pressure washer, as that forces water into the membrane. Use a stiff brush or an old toothbrush to lift mud from the welt, stitching and tread. For fabric boots, a specialist cleaner is fine; for leather, use a gentle leather cleaner rather than washing-up liquid, which strips oils.

Drying is where most people ruin their boots. Heat is the enemy. Radiators, boilers, airing cupboards and direct sun can shrink leather, warp soles and delaminate membranes. Instead, stuff each boot with crumpled newspaper or a clean cloth, changing it every few hours until the paper comes out dry. Keep them at room temperature, ideally with the tongues open and footbeds removed, so air can circulate. A boot dryer on a cool setting is acceptable, but never a hair dryer.

• Rinse mud before it dries hard — it is far easier to remove.
• Never submerge leather boots in water; wipe and brush instead.
• Dry naturally, away from direct heat and sunlight.
• Once nearly dry, apply a leather conditioner or fabric reproofer.
• Replace laces if they are gritty or frayed; they rub and wear eyelets.

Waterproofs: Wash, Reproof, Revive

A waterproof jacket or trouser does not need washing often, but when it is grimy and wetting out, a clean is the kindest thing you can do. Dirt and body oils clog the fabric pores, so water stops beading and starts soaking in. That feels damp and heavy, even if the membrane is still intact. Close all zips and Velcro, empty pockets, and wash on a gentle cycle with a technical cleaner. Do not use biological washing powder, fabric softener or conditioner — they leave residues that destroy water repellency.

After washing, rinse twice if your machine allows. If the care label permits, a low tumble dry can reactivate the durable water repellent finish. If not, hang the garment to drip dry, then apply a spray-on or wash-in reproofer designed for waterproof breathable fabrics. Pay extra attention to shoulders, hood and cuffs, which take the most rain. Always check the care label first: some membranes dislike heat, while others need it to perform.

• Wash waterproofs only when they are dirty or no longer bead water.
• Use a dedicated technical cleaner, never ordinary detergent.
• Zip up, fasten flaps and empty pockets before washing.
• Reproof after washing, while the fabric is still slightly damp for spray-on products.
• Hang to dry in a cool, airy place — not on a hot radiator.

Rucksacks, Gaiters and the Small Stuff

Your rucksack collects mud on the base, sweat on the back panel and crumbs in every crevice. Empty it completely, turn out the pockets and sponge the fabric with lukewarm water and a little mild soap. Rinse with a damp cloth, then hang it upside down to dry in the shade. Do not machine wash a framed pack, and never tumble dry it. Gaiters need the same treatment: rinse off mud, hang them by the top loop, and check the Velcro and press studs for grit. Walking poles should be wiped down and dried with the sections extended, then collapsed only when fully dry to prevent seizing.

Where and How to Store Wet-Weather Kit

Once everything is properly dry, storage matters. A damp shed or a sealed plastic bag is a recipe for mildew and musty smells. Store boots upright, laces loosened, in a cool, dry cupboard or on a breathable rack. Hang waterproofs on a wide hanger rather than cramming them into a compressed bundle. Rucksacks keep their shape best when hung or stood upright, not squashed under other bags. If you have space, rotate between two pairs of boots so each pair has time to dry completely between walks — your feet and your boots will thank you.

A Five-Minute Routine That Saves You Money

Build a simple habit: as soon as you get home, knock the worst mud off outside, remove footbeds, rinse boots and gaiters, and hang waterproofs on a chair back to air. Ten minutes later, stuff boots with newspaper and leave them to dry overnight. Once a month, check seams, zips, buckles and tread. A tiny tear or a worn sole is cheap to repair now, but expensive to replace later. Look after your kit after every wet walk and it will look after you on every footpath, bridleway and boggy field for years to come.